Ok, lets kick this off in the right direction,
Since we know that the spolar began it birth as a improvement of the pw machine, let back it up to there, and them go back forward again,
In the above tool set, we can plainly see that the primer knock out is in fact the size of the 410 in this tool set. So lets start there.
This is the primer knock out punch on a 12 gauge 800 machine, and as you can see, the top OD of the punch is much wider, and it comes down to the taper of the end of the large section to the tip punch section, that will first expand the hull folds back open the first time.
Next we get into the powder drop tube, and in the spolar tool set you can see that the drop tube is tip tapered, while on the PW unit, the bottom of the powder drop tube is smaller OD, then the hull full taper enlarger is more towards the top of the drop tube after the longer lower straight that will too, expands the hull folds open again for a second time as the hull is worked through the machine. With spolar using the 20 gauge drop tube, the hulls folds are not folded back at this station either, while on the PW powder drop tube, starts out as a smaller 20 gauge Spolar OD tube, but at the last of the handle down stoke, the top of the hulls hits the taper section and the end of hulled flared open again.
Note: so no one is confused, the PW rotates clock wise, while a spolar rotates counter clockwise, being that on a PW, the next station is to the left, while on a spolar, the next station is to the right.
So we see that the with spolar using a 410 primer punch out tool, then a 20 gauge powder drop tube, at neither of these stages has the end of the hull folds be flared back fully reopen.
At his point, we have just about taken the topic as far as everyone else, but lets take it step farther, and take it to the next station on the machine, the wad insertion station. With the folds of the hull not fully flared open at either steps before this station, you can end up with the wad wanting to cock as it being guided into the hull.
Here at the wad insertion station, instead of the wad guide fingers dropping easily into a hull that the end folds have been pre-flared back open , the tip of the wad guide not only has to find the center of the folded in end of the hull, but then as the hull is being forced down, the wad guide and wad now how to do all the work to flair the hull open (read if when the wad is being driving downward, the tips of the fingers may not fully seat deep into the hull to begin with, and now with the tips of the fingers less than ideal depth into the hull, the angle of attack/the pressure needed on the wad to get the hull end open can cause unneeded pressure of the tube/ram to the wad that can compress the wad compression section on the wad before the wad made it through the wad guide fingers, cocking the bottom of the wad as it goes through the fingers/being seated into the hull (windjammer users, take note on this since I have a friend that had the some problem through a few gauges, being a cocked wads in reloads causing "Poofer" when everything else was correct with the loads).
Since I make my own parts when needed, lets get to it.
On the wad knock out tool, we make a new 12 gauge knock out tool in the PW fashion, but lengthen the tip to full OD taper section so that section is less likely to catch up on the hull folds as it states to open then up (bottom is the same OD of the end punch, then taper up from there to the main OD with just a longer taper than a PW tool).
Next the powder drop tool, and here we just use the PW design with it smaller straight bottom section, and the tapered to larger hull folds re-flair section so that tool as well flairs the hull top fold again as well. Again we borrow the PW design, and again, go with a longer taper at the top OD, with it the OD the primer knock out tool as well (for that second flaring of the hull before the hull makes it to the wad insertion station).
Now with the two new tools in the spolar machine, when you comes the next station/ install the wad, the top of the hulls is re-flared open before hand (twice as a mater of fact), and will not have problems with neither the guide fingers dropping cleanly into the now flared open end of hull, and since now a great deal of pressure is not needed to get the wad through the finger into the hull (to flair the hull end back open), no more cocked wad as well.
Now the bad news, in VA/on the road for the next few months, so not photos or dimension for the new tools But yes, we are legal to make PW style tools for the spolar machine without patent infringement, so long as they are not for resale/for your own machine). So if someone is looking for me to make them the new tools for free for their machines (read so I don't get sued), get in line since there are a few guys that I have to do PW mods for first once I get back. If you just need dimensions, then they too will take months to get, but really not needed since you can pretty much figure them out of your own.
Lastly, if you going to reload 410 with 296/H110 in the spolar and still at the lathe, then you may as well make the improved seal (and do the mag insert into the hull insertion post), but those are other topics in themselves that need there own posts (read: got to hate a tease since that write up will be month out as well). :lol: