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Can you adjust down the distance on a Champion Easybird?

8K views 15 replies 5 participants last post by  brm 
#1 ·
Can you adjust down the distance on a Champion Easybird & maybe the speed also? It would be nice to be able to tone it down for beginners. If shooting at a public range you can't place the thrower anywhere; it's mostly off to the side. If it's throwing 85 yards & fast all the time it might now be good for teaching beginners (but I'd still like to have an automatic, not manual thrower). thanks,
 
#2 ·
sgc,

the easybird is limited to 70 yards throwing distance. it can be backed down a little, probably down to about 50 yards, if i had to guess. it is very obvious when you are backed down to minimum tension, the spring bushing will pop out the back of the frame. at this point, you need to add tension until the black spring bushing is secure in the back of the frame. if you already have a machine, i hope this helps. if not, please give us a call, we keep them in stock. fyi, champion also makes a doubles trap which is limited to 50 yards of spring tension and can be backed off further (it throws singles and doubles).

let me know if you have any questions,
corey howell
334.393.2843
http://www.howellshootingsupplies.com
 
#4 ·
The wheelybird is the entry level champion product. it has a slower cycle time (2 seconds) and will only throw the target about 55 yards. that being said, it does cost less. There is not an oscillating or wobble kit available for this machine. but if you are just looking for some basic clay shooting, it is an economical way to go. it is a newer product (less than 2 years on the market) but i have not had a lot of warranty issues like i have had when some of champion's models first came out. i have them in stock, if interested.

let, me know if you have any questions,

corey howell
334.393.2843
http://www.howellshootingsupplies.com
 
#5 ·
cwhowell said:
The wheelybird is the entry level champion product... it is an economical way to go... i have not had a lot of warranty issues like i have had when some of champion's models first came out...
Corey:

Champion support provided me with some info on both the WheelyBird and Easybird and indicated that the WheelyBird was more economical and bulletproof. In your opinion, bulletproof how?

It appears to have a chain drive. Isn't that inherently prone to problems?

What is the drive system on the Easybird? In the limited images I've seen, I don't see a chain but do see a gear.

Based on the few images I've seen, the Altas AT50 and the Easybird look similar. Atlas boasts no chains or sprockets in their AT50. For comparison, can you contrast its drive system to that of the two aforementioned Champion throwers?

Atlas claims 0.6s recycle while Champion claims 1s for the Easybird. Are those both accurate?

Thank you for your assistance.
 
#6 ·
[KBK GN60]Corey:

Champion support provided me with some info on both the WheelyBird and Easybird and indicated that the WheelyBird was more economical and bulletproof. In your opinion, bulletproof how?

It appears to have a chain drive. Isn't that inherently prone to problems?

What is the drive system on the Easybird? In the limited images I've seen, I don't see a chain but do see a gear.

Based on the few images I've seen, the Altas AT50 and the Easybird look similar. Atlas boasts no chains or sprockets in their AT50. For comparison, can you contrast its drive system to that of the two aforementioned Champion throwers?

Atlas claims 0.6s recycle while Champion claims 1s for the Easybird. Are those both accurate?

Thank you for your assistance.[/quote]

The easybird is a near identical copy of an atlas at50. their cycle times are nearly identical, though, i have never taken a stopwatch to it. i would say that both are near a second or less in cycle time, which makes it easy to get 4-5 birds in the air at a time. Both units are "direct drive" meaning a crank arm rotates around and advances the driven stud or cocking stud.

Chaindrive does not mean poor reliability. You will just want to keep it coated with a light oil or silicon spray to prevent corrosion. It does cycle a lot slower than the direct drive units do, probably twice as long to cycle a target. It also will not throw as far (55yds vs 70 yds).

You cannot add an oscillating/wobble base to the wheelybird, so if you are thinking about one for trap, I would pick the at50 or easybird. if you are looking for a budget trap to get out and just play around shooting, i would go with the wheelybird. either way, i have all three in stock.

is the wheelybird bulletproof? i'd say i have a warranty claim about 1 in every 12 sold. nearly identical to the easybird.

Hope this helps!
Corey Howell
334.393.2843
http://www.howellshootingsupplies.com
 
#7 ·
cwhowell said:
sgc,

the easybird is limited to 70 yards throwing distance. it can be backed down a little, probably down to about 50 yards, if i had to guess. it is very obvious when you are backed down to minimum tension, the spring bushing will pop out the back of the frame. at this point, you need to add tension until the black spring bushing is secure in the back of the frame. if you already have a machine, i hope this helps. if not, please give us a call, we keep them in stock. fyi, champion also makes a doubles trap which is limited to 50 yards of spring tension and can be backed off further (it throws singles and doubles).

let me know if you have any questions,
corey howell
334.393.2843
http://www.howellshootingsupplies.com
In reference to adjusting spring tension on the Easybird, I can't tell what tension I have unless I go back to putting the arm at 12 o'clock like with initial setup. Is there anyway to get the arm to 12 o'clock without removing the spring? To get minimum tension wouldn't the arm need to be at 12 o'clock? Thanks.
 
#8 ·
chucka said:
Is there anyway to get the arm to 12 o'clock without removing the spring?
Isn't the Safe Release switch working? With the battery connected, you briefly depress the ON / OFF / SAFE RELEASE switch and the arm is supposed to fling forward and stop. Some internet threads have indicated that having a clay on the arm will insure the arm doesn't fling past the 12 o'clock position. This is hard to do if not out in a field...

Have you seen this video?

Regards.
 
#9 ·
KBK GN60 said:
chucka said:
Is there anyway to get the arm to 12 o'clock without removing the spring?
Isn't the Safe Release switch working? With the battery connected, you briefly depress the ON / OFF / SAFE RELEASE switch and the arm is supposed to fling forward and stop. Some internet threads have indicated that having a clay on the arm will insure the arm doesn't fling past the 12 o'clock position. This is hard to do if not out in a field...

Have you seen this video?

Regards.
That is what I tried to do but I guess I can't be brief enough to get the arm to stop at 12 o'clock. This was back last winter in the shop. Everything has been working well, so I haven't messed around with the spring tension since, and I have never tried it with a clay on the arm. I just thought if there was an easy way to get it to stop there; I would like to know about it.

I watched the video before I assembled the trap, but thanks for the effort.
 
#10 ·
I searched for and saved links to some of the discussions (should have saved them the first time). Here's perhaps the best. In order to get the arm to stop at 12 o'clock on decock, besides throwing with a clay (to load down the arm) you can first reduce spring tension. http://www.shotgunworld.com/bbs/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=162612

I don't think it's a matter of being brief with the switch. I'm assuming the purpose of SAFE RELEASE is to release the arm but not start the motor to recock it. It appears to be inertia that's carrying the arm past 12 o'clock.

Hope this helps and good luck.
 
#11 ·
KBK GN60 said:
I searched for and saved links to some of the discussions (should have saved them the first time). Here's perhaps the best. In order to get the arm to stop at 12 o'clock on decock, besides throwing with a clay (to load down the arm) you can first reduce spring tension. http://www.shotgunworld.com/bbs/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=162612

I don't think it's a matter of being brief with the switch. I'm assuming the purpose of SAFE RELEASE is to release the arm but not start the motor to recock it. It appears to be inertia that's carrying the arm past 12 o'clock.

Hope this helps and good luck.
Me thinks someone is confused besides me. :lol: The safe release (uncocked ) position of the arm on an Easybird is not when the arm is in the 12 o'clock position. I don't know why anyone would want the arm in the 12 o'clock position except to determine minimum spring tension and maybe do some tension adjustment. i don't know what the guy means by an Easybird being difficult to uncork unless he is trying to put the arm at 12 o'clock thinking that is the uncocked safe position. Pushing a switch to the safe position is not all that challenging. Somebody might need to read the manual. :)
 
#12 ·
chucka said:
The safe release (uncocked ) position of the arm on an Easybird is not when the arm is in the 12 o'clock position. I don't know why anyone would want the arm in the 12 o'clock position except to determine minimum spring tension and maybe do some tension adjustment... Somebody might need to read the manual. :)
Yep, the manual shows the the uncocked arm to be at about the 7:30 o'clock position. However, at 6:07 minutes into the Easybird video referenced above, Champion shows the uncocked position to be at the 12:00 o'clock where minimal tension appears to be on the spring.

I would think for safety reasons (handling and transport) one would want to hit SAFE RELEASE and feel confident the arm has the least possible / no spring tension on it. This appears to be how the White Wing is designed. Plus storing the unit with the spring under tension would seem to subject components to needless stress.

If you own an Easybird, where does its arm end up after you depress SAFE RELEASE? Is there tension on the mainspring? If so, I agree with the nod to Do-All in that old 2008 discussion.

Hopefully Corey Howell will weight in on the earlier question of how to get the arm to the 12:00 o'clock position, and perhaps clarify what the real uncocked position is.

Regards.
 
#13 ·
KBK GN60 said:
chucka said:
The safe release (uncocked ) position of the arm on an Easybird is not when the arm is in the 12 o'clock position. I don't know why anyone would want the arm in the 12 o'clock position except to determine minimum spring tension and maybe do some tension adjustment... Somebody might need to read the manual. :)
Yep, the manual shows the the uncocked arm to be at about the 7:30 o'clock position. However, at 6:07 minutes into the Easybird video referenced above, Champion shows the uncocked position to be at the 12:00 o'clock where minimal tension appears to be on the spring.

I would think for safety reasons (handling and transport) one would want to hit SAFE RELEASE and feel confident the arm has the least possible / no spring tension on it. This appears to be how the White Wing is designed. Plus storing the unit with the spring under tension would seem to subject components to needless stress.

If you own an Easybird, where does its arm end up after you depress SAFE RELEASE? Is there tension on the mainspring? If so, I agree with the nod to Do-All in that old 2008 discussion.

Hopefully Corey Howell will weight in on the earlier question of how to get the arm to the 12:00 o'clock position, and perhaps clarify what the real uncocked position is.

Regards.
The uncocked position of the arm is where the manual says it is--around 7 o'clock then when the trap cocks, the arm moves to around 8 o'clock. In the video the arm at 12 o'clock is for spring installation. Minimum spring tension is where there is no slop in the spring when the arm is at 12 o'clock. I don't see any problem with this and for transport I wouldn't want the arm sticking out at 12 o'clock. There is a little tension on the spring when uncocked, but I don't see this as a problem at all for either stress on the spring or safety. Without a battery connected I don't see how the trap could fire.

The two Atlas traps that I have used have set outside constantly with some tension on the springs for years.

When a trap is in use I think you should stay out of the path of the arm. Since I carry mine around for transport, I tie up the cords with a piece of rope and at the same time tie the arm to the body of the trap. Takes about 3 seconds. My trap arm ain't going anywhere until I tell it to.
 
#14 ·
guys,

sorry i have not been back on here earlier, its been pretty busy around here! if y'all ever have a question feel free to give us a call or shoot me an email through our website.

do not always take the info in manuals as the gospel (this applies to many more things too!). a trap is in uncocked position when it is not in the cocked position or under spring pressure. its a pretty safe bet that if the machine does not have the throwing arm pointed back at the 6'oclock position (if you are standing behind the machine), then it is in the safe position. however, unless you know it to be safe released by using the momentary safe release switch (spring returned), then it is not. always safety first, these traps are just like loaded guns in my opinion and if not respected, they will get your attention...got a few funny stories behind that one.

the uncocked position of the arm will depend on whether you have thrown a target or not. with the weight of a target, the arm tends to rest at about the 9oclock position, while an arm that has not thrown a target will come to rest between the 7-8oclock position.

as far as determining minimum tension and getting the trap into the 12oclock position, don't worry with that. the easiest way to determine the minimum spring tension is to back the spring off until the spring bushing starts to pop out of the rear of the trap. when it starts to do this, you are at minimum tension and need to add a turn or two of sping.

if you do not want to do this, then completely back off the mainspring tension until the nuts come off the thread and you are able to push the threaded rod through the rear hole in the frame. then manually run the arm through the cocked position until the arm is pointed forward into the 12oclock position. If the arm does not continue all the way to the front, thenyou may have to bump the safe release switch to allow the motor to run a little. at this point, you should be able to reattach the mainspring at minimum tension.

since, there are a few vintages of these machines and even the mainspring bolts are different length, i usually determine how much more i can add by reaching my finger under the frame at the back and feel how much threaded rod is still uncovered. As with any technical advice given, THIS SHOULD ONLY BE DONE IF THE MACHINE IS IN THE UNCOCKED POSITION AND THE BATTERY CABLE REMOVED.

Hope this helps!
Corey Howell
334.393.2843
http://www.howellshootingsupplies.com
howelltraps@roadrunner.com
 
#15 ·
Corey:

Thank you very much for your assistance. After my last post I stumbled upon a copy of the AT50 instruction manual http://www.qualityreplacementparts.com/Manuals/AT50 manual.pdf. In it are statements I'd expect from a manufacturer of a product of this design (either the AT50 or close-copy Easybird) - The arm is uncocked when straight out (12:00 o'clock), and the user should uncock arm after use and before moving.

You and it have also cleared up my misconception of the Easybird Safe Release switch. This switch really is simply a momentary type. There's no special arm parking function like on the White Wing, which accurately returns the arm to 12:00 o'clock.

I'm still deciding between the Easybird and White Wing. I like the sure way of uncocking the arm of the White Wing, but I also like the faster recycle speed of the Easybird.

Thanks again for helping to clear up some issues regarding the Easybird.

Regards.
 
#16 ·
KBK GN60 said:
Corey: ... There's no special arm parking function like on the White Wing, which accurately returns the arm to 12:00 o'clock.

I'm still deciding between the Easybird and White Wing. I like the sure way of uncocking the arm of the White Wing, but I also like the faster recycle speed of the Easybird.

Thanks again for helping to clear up some issues regarding the Easybird.

Regards.
Having owned an EasyBird for several months which requires transporting for each use, I can unequivocally state there has never been a time that we have parked it and not been able to visually determine it is indeed in park. Then again perhaps you are questioning your memory more than the machine.

Unless one is constantly taking new groups of novices to shoot, always requiring a slower clay; the quickest cycle and throwing speed one can reasonably afford the better, as it's much easier/cheaper to place a too fast machine in a quartering position behind the shooter to develope experience than it is to upgrade to a better machine that you'll likely soon demand.
 
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