I can't tell you how to fix the 366 or a PW, but I can help you with the MEC! :lol:

 

look at the rcbs grand . built like a tank compared to the mec. and before i get bashed i own a mec 650 mec 9000 and the grand. the 9000 just seem so flimsy.

 

Unlike my 9000's, once you dial in a PW you will probably not have to worry about asjusting or fixing anything for a very, very long time.

 

The Hornady 366 is functionally similar to the MEC 9000G. That is, they both perform the same functions. Pricewise, I believe the Hornady is more expensive. Your gun will never know the difference. Given normal upkeep, they'll last several lifetimes. I think it is fair to say MEC loaders in general are more popular than other brands. You sure see more of them used than anything else and more places sell them than other brands of shotgun loader. If you buy one, you'll never regret it unless you're after bragging rights over who spent the most money!
I've been lucky to have tried a number of loaders. They all work. What I relate to is will the ammo I produce function in my gun. In my experience, both the loaders you've mentioned will give you reliable reloads on a consistent basis, provided you're using a proven recipe and quality components.
It looks to me like your mind is made up to get the MEC. Go for it!

 

Unlike my 9000's, once you dial in a PW you will probably not have to worry about asjusting or fixing anything for a very, very long time.

I am sorry about this , but I have 4 9000 MEC presses and the only adjustments that I ever have to make is when I make a great change in the recipe. Other than a periodic lubrication of the sizer collet, there just is not a need to make adjustments on them. Of course, I understand how they work.

 

I have had a 9000 for about 6 yrs, loading app. 7000 rounds per year. Never have made one adjustment in all that time. About 6 months ago I bought an Auto-Mate and that is a wonderful combo.

 

the 366 has the advantage of compound leverage which makes it easier to pull the handle. on the mec you're pushing down against a spring to make the dies engage the hulls. it's really the only complaint i have of the mec. the 366 is big. there's all kinds of room and easy access to everything. however, the spin the knob to fill the tube feeding tube design is a slow. i don't know why they haven't improved that thing. good luck with it

 

The primer feed on the 366 is crappy, in my opinion. Sometimes it will drop more than one primer. However, it works pretty good if you wrap a rubber band around the end of the primer drop tube to keep some tension on it. Also, the powder will shut itself off occasionally. Of course, you will have a turret full of shells w/o powder before you notice.
The 366 for 410 bore has yet another problem. In addition to the problems mentioned above, the small base on the 410 shell allows it to wobble as the turret indexes, then the primer seater catches the edge of the shell as you pull down the handle and ruins the hull. It does the same to the shell that is being filled with shot. Of course, the shot then spills, and you have to remove the turret from the loader to clean up the mess. Its a good thing I was in my 20's when I had the 366. Now that I'm pushing 50, I probably would have a stroke if I had to deal with that beast again. Many times I wanted to take an axe to it.

I swapped a fellow straight up for a MEC 650. I was delighted to be rid of the 366, and I used the 650 for more than 20 years with no problems whatsoever before I sold it for $100 and bought a MEC 9000G.

I suppose, in all fairness, Hornady may have made improvements to the 366 since I had mine in 1985, but since the MEC's work so good, I'm sure not going to find out.

 

I have three Hornady 366s. I use one for 20GA and the other two are 12 GA set up for 1 oz loads and 1 1/8 oz loads. I have owned a 366 press since 1983 and I swear by them. I have never broken or had to replace a part on any of these loaders. I do not know how many rounds I have loaded, but it is a bunch.

 

I have both (although the 366 is an oldie). Get the 9000G.

 

Been happy with my 9000G for over 15 years & the biggest problem I've had was screwing the bottles in to tight which will keep the charge bar from moving freely thus not picking up a full powder charge, my cure has been to lightly screw the bottles in then no problems.

 

I have P-w 800 (410), P-w 900 (Multi-ga tooling), a RCBS Grand (12 ga), a 366 (multi-ga tooling). The 366 collects spider nests because of the d@#% primer feed (I prefer to drop 1 primer at a time and have it go in straight, rather than in multiples and/or sideways). If I had none of the above, I would buy RCBS for 12 & 20 ga: for all gauges either a P-w 800+ or 4- MECs, which I know nothing about.

 

Ya'all are just going to have to save up and get a Spolar. :lol:

 

Ya'all are just going to have to save up and get a Spolar. :lol:

I truly love the way that they look and the craftmanship in them, but they just don't make a loaded shell that functions any better or looks any better than those that I get off of my MEC.

 

I load 12 and 20 on Mec Grabbers and Rcbs Grand. I cussed the Grabbers and had lots of trouble. As soon as I bought the Grand the Grabbers started running unbelievably perfect. I like red and green both but the green does operate much smoother and the force required to pull handle is much less.
The knowledge on this board to help with Mec is hard to beat!
One thing, the Grand has never spilled shot or powder!

 

I load 12 and 20 on Mec Grabbers and Rcbs Grand. I cussed the Grabbers and had lots of trouble. As soon as I bought the Grand the Grabbers started running unbelievably perfect. I like red and green both but the green does operate much smoother and the force required to pull handle is much less.
The knowledge on this board to help with Mec is hard to beat!
One thing, the Grand has never spilled shot or powder!

How far does the end of the handle move on a full press stroke of the Grand, up plus down movement? How much does the Grabber handle move, up plus down movement? More, less?
Inquiring minds want to know!

 

FOr what it is worth, I have a pair of 366s

I bought them on line (ebay) one old one relatively new. Paid less for them than the Mecs at the time..

I like the way they are made and really like the customer service I have gotten from Hornady...

Most of the problems I have experienced are more attributable to user error rather than the machine..

I too experienced the problem with the primers not dropping consistantly.. turns out I had not set everything up properly (Another lesson in read every word in the manual) ALso had the problem with the wad catching the side of the shell.. Again turned out to be adjustment/setup related and operator error.. I was puttign the wad too far into the wad guide which opened up the guide finger which caught the lib of the shell..

after some help form some folks here and a couple of conversations with Hornady I have them running very smoothly..

Don't know how it is with the Mec but if yuo drop a load of shot on the table (correcting a problem while adjusting) you have to pull the shell plate and clean the shot out of everything. Not a difficult process but time consuming.. In particular the shot that falls into the primer seating station...

IN fairness to Hornady and Mec, much of my problem is operator.. I shoot a lot and decided to jump immediately into a progressive rather than take the time to learn the process on a single stage and then advance...

I should have started with the single. It would have allowed me to get a better handle on the process learn more about what can go side ways when you change shells or wads...

With a progressive everything is happening at once if things start to screw up you can build several shells without powder or maybe not enough powder.. best case you waste a lot of supplies learning.. and miss what you shot at... Inconsistent loads are dangerous.

If you are jumping ahead so to speak be careful there is a lot going on...

 

FOr what it is worth, I have a pair of 366s

I bought them on line (ebay) one old one relatively new. Paid less for them than the Mecs at the time..

I like the way they are made and really like the customer service I have gotten from Hornady...

Most of the problems I have experienced are more attributable to user error rather than the machine..

I too experienced the problem with the primers not dropping consistantly.. turns out I had not set everything up properly (Another lesson in read every word in the manual) ALso had the problem with the wad catching the side of the shell.. Again turned out to be adjustment/setup related and operator error.. I was puttign the wad too far into the wad guide which opened up the guide finger which caught the lib of the shell..

after some help form some folks here and a couple of conversations with Hornady I have them running very smoothly..

Don't know how it is with the Mec but if yuo drop a load of shot on the table (correcting a problem while adjusting) you have to pull the shell plate and clean the shot out of everything. Not a difficult process but time consuming.. In particular the shot that falls into the primer seating station...

IN fairness to Hornady and Mec, much of my problem is operator.. I shoot a lot and decided to jump immediately into a progressive rather than take the time to learn the process on a single stage and then advance...

I should have started with the single. It would have allowed me to get a better handle on the process learn more about what can go side ways when you change shells or wads...

With a progressive everything is happening at once if things start to screw up you can build several shells without powder or maybe not enough powder.. best case you waste a lot of supplies learning.. and miss what you shot at... Inconsistent loads are dangerous.

If you are jumping ahead so to speak be careful there is a lot going on...

 

Unlike my 9000's, once you dial in a PW you will probably not have to worry about asjusting or fixing anything for a very, very long time.

I am sorry about this , but I have 4 9000 MEC presses and the only adjustments that I ever have to make is when I make a great change in the recipe. Other than a periodic lubrication of the sizer collet, there just is not a need to make adjustments on them. Of course, I understand how they work.

Curly - how do you keep the primers from flipping? I had a 9000 in 12, and, IMO, the most poorly designed part of it was the priming system - not always dropping, flipping, the ball chain linkage....drove me nuts

 

Hermit-- glad you are well satisfied w/ the 366s-I tried to the point of agravation/ frustration with the one I have, never could get the primer feed to do anything consistent except screw up. Hornady's suggestions didn't help, finaly lost patience. Using p-ws for small stuff, have RCBS Grand for 12. One feature I really like about the Grand-it works fine as a single stage if you just cut the primer feed off. I just single load primers when changing loads if adjustments are necessary. But--- that's why they make all these different kinds. Happy Holidays to all!

 

Unlike my 9000's, once you dial in a PW you will probably not have to worry about asjusting or fixing anything for a very, very long time.

I am sorry about this , but I have 4 9000 MEC presses and the only adjustments that I ever have to make is when I make a great change in the recipe. Other than a periodic lubrication of the sizer collet, there just is not a need to make adjustments on them. Of course, I understand how they work.

Curly - how do you keep the primers from flipping? I had a 9000 in 12, and, IMO, the most poorly designed part of it was the priming system - not always dropping, flipping, the ball chain linkage....drove me nuts

Well, I found that the drop tube had to be perfectly centered over the hole in the plate, and the timing such that the primer released just at the bottom of the stroke. That in conjunction with the desired half second hold at the bottom insured a direct hit.
Also be aware that all of my older G model presses were updated to the new primer feed as soon as it was available.

Now that primer flip thing is usually a result of the collet sticking and popping open, flicking the primer out of the hole or causing it to invert and land upside down in the hole. As soon as we hear the clink of the collet popping open, the collet needs a lube and cleaning. I have a whole series of photos on the easiest method for doing that. I also have decided that it is also a good thing to grind down the top of the collet that is right under the primer drop hole in the plate. This greatly diminishes the popping of the primer from the hole in the plate.
Question answered to your satisfaction? Need more? I will try again, just ask.

 

I have an old Pacific 366 (Hornady), a 9000g MEC and an old 800B Ponsness Warren. All three machines load quality shells. My favorite of the three is the PW, second is the 366 Pacific and last but not least is the MEC 9000. If you are buying new then you will save some money by buying the MEC and the support for them is great. If I was buying another machine I would buy a PW800 plus as I believe it's the best bang for the buck.

Good Luck,
Muley

 

JM423

I understand the frustration part... I came close more than one time durign the process to making the Final adjustment with a 9lb hammer

finally got it right and the primer drop issues was resolved...